Breeding Rabbits
Rearing rabbits carries its own excitement--self-bred exhibition winners
arc always more satisfying than those bred by other people. However,
before breeding rabbits, some practical considerations must be made: Do
you have time to devote to the increased number of animals? Do you l c
the available space? Can you afford the cost of breeding without cutting
hack on the quality and quantity of food? What are you going to do with
all of the new youngsters?
If the above points do not pose a problem, the next question is: How
good is your stock? It costs as much to rear inferior specimens as it
does to breed quality stock.
Since rabbits are not so expensive anyway, financially it is more
prudent to breed only from purebred animals of sound type. Such animals
are easier to sell. Additionally, from a trio of purebreds, a stud of
progressively better rabbits can be developed.
The Buck
The buck is the most important animal in any stud of rabbits. This is
not because he can pass on more of his good qualities than can a female.
Rather, it is because he gets a greater opportunity to do so. Thus, his
standing points can be perpetuated rapidly in a given population.
Therein lies the sting: if he carries an unknown fault (a recessive not
shown visually), this is spread extensively within that population. A
good stud can be assessed only by the number of quality progeny he
produces consistently in ratio to the number of young he produces. This,
of course, is affected by the quality of females to which he is mated.
Simply using the finest looking male is no guarantee that he can pass on
his virtues. His track record must show that he can. This is a trap many
beginners fall into. Therefore, only use a buck whose pedigree suggests
that he is genetically as good as his appearance. If purchasing a trio,
check that they have a relationship to a male or female that
particularly impressed you.
The Doe
The factors important in a buck are equally important in a doe. Remember
that she passes many breeding failures in domestic stock. It is usually
attributable to less than satisfactory conditions in which the doe is
living. The reason may not be one of the actual state of the hutch.
Stress, induced by noise, fear or other factors, is a common cause.
Pseudo pregnancy
This situation is not uncommon in rabbits. The doe passes through
all the stages of apparent pregnancy. She prepares a nest, plucks wool
from her chest and her mammary glands swell. However, she is not
pregnant. The condition can be induced in a doe living with other
females, if she is placed in a hutch previously occupied by a buck or
even if she picks up the scent of a buck. Such a doe desires a litter
and is in a fertile state. Providing she is in good condition, she
should be mated as soon as possible. If she is not mated, be sure she
returns to her normal state. If she does not, consult a veterinarian.
Mating
Once your rabbits are in prime condition, mating can commence. Introduce
the doe to the buck's hutch--never the reverse. The buck will constantly
follow the doe around, indicating his desire to mate. If she is
receptive, the doe will eventually stand so he can mate her. The sexual
act is over quickly. However, it may be repeated several times in a
short space of time. It is best that you watch the proceedings rather
than leave the pair alone together overnight. If the doe is not ready
for mating, she will be hounded by the buck for long periods.
She may even be attacked. Or, she may turn on the buck and inflict a
nasty wound. If it is obvious that mating will not occur that day,
return the doe to her hutch. Try again the next day. It is a good idea
to pair an inexperienced rabbit with an experienced mate.
Once the mating is over, return the doe to her hutch. Her litter can be
expected in about 30 days. Some breeders test mute their does after one
week. If she refuses any sort of advances from the buck, the first
mating was probably successful.
Nest Box
A doe normally starts to prepare a nest about a week prior to labor. A
nest box is not essential, but it does
prevent the babies from being scattered around the hutch. A simple box,
with the front section low enough to allow easy entrance, is all that is
needed. It can be adorned with fresh bedding. The doe will add to this
with hair pulled from her chest.
Rearing
Five to six rabbits comprise a normal litter, but up to ten can be
produced. Soon after birth, each youngster should be examined with great
care. At this time, the doe should be occupied in the hutch or run. Rub
your hands over her or in the bedding of her quarters to disguise your
scent; if the babies pick up your scent, the mother may kill them. Any
deformed youngsters must be culled and the dead removed. The young are
born blind and naked. Their fur begins to grow after four days. Their
eyes open around the ninth or tenth day. They emerge from the nest box
around three weeks of age and are really cute. At this age, they start
to eat various foods. This process continues until, by about six to
eight weeks of age,
they are fully weaned and independent of their mother at this time. be
sure to separate the sexes to avoid unwanted matings between
siblings.
Taming
Once the youngsters leave the nest area, they can be handled without too
much worry. At this time, they should be picked up
and inspected daily. The more they are handled, the tamer they become.
Never pick by its ear or tail. Instead, gently encircle the rabbits
abdomen to support it's weight with your hand. The bunny can be placed
against your chest, with it's head looking up to you. then place your
other hand under its rump for further support.
Sexing
It is difficult to sex vary young rabbits with certainty. When they are
three months old, the sexual organs will have developed to the point
that an inspection establishes the gender. Place the rabbit on a table
or on your lap. Turn the bunny on Us back, securing the head with one
hand. Gently press on either side of the genitals. A small penis is
evident in the male, while a small slit is present in the female. The
sexual organs arc somewhat further from the anus of the male than of the
female. The testes are also apparent in an older male. Be aware that the
presence of teats does not indicate gender. Both sexes have teats,
though they are more obvious in the female.
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